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Haute Couture Christian Dior/Spring-Summer 2017. Paris. – Cliché Inspire
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Cliché Inspire / fashion  / Haute Couture Christian Dior/Spring-Summer 2017. Paris.

Haute Couture Christian Dior/Spring-Summer 2017. Paris.

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This week, was held in Paris, Couture Fashion Week. The most prestigious  fashion houses presented their haute-couture collections for spring/summer 2017. The huge event started with Dior Couture Show, which I.ll talk today, for two reasons: I love DIOR & This is the first Collection under Maria Grazia Chiuri.s signature, the new Creation Director  and also, the first female designer from Dior.  After Raf Simons.s  unexpected leaving from Dior, all eyes were glued to the new designer. All of us were curious to see, to admire, to analize the new collection, the new direction that will give Maria Chiuri for Dior House. After the show,  appeared the first reactions in online environment…

Maria Grazia Chiuri is the ex-creative director for Valentino. Unfortunately, the transition to Dior is quite difficult for her, a part of collection was a reminiscent of Valentino. Before the show, she gave an interview for Vogue and admitted that it will be difficult times for her, a new language to speak  and not mention about learning the intricacies of one of the grandest French couture ateliers. In only a few month, it.s impossible to know everything about Dior, says Maria Chiuri.  I salute the realism of Mrs Grazia and as well, her desire: „I want to live my dream! I want to create something magical, inspirational, but still root in reality.”

The show scene was a magical one. It was chosen Rodin  Castle, a jewel of architecture from Paris. In only a couples of hours, the garden.s castle was transformed into a huge ballroom. A big maze, full of greenery, a lot of green pillows like grass, with Life Tree in the middle: fairy lights, crystals, tiny mirrors, colored pendants and tarots cards. The models walked through the green grass, in order to suggest as much the magical atmosphere of a fairytale. In this fairy set up, took place the Dior Fashion Couture Show, spring/summer 2017.

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The Collection had 59 creations. The show was opened in a dark sensual note, with models wearing black suits made of black wool combined with satin and crinoline masks. Then, the collection goes on with diaphanous dresses, full of floral prints and patterns hidden within the layers of tulle dresses and  astrological tarot symbols embroidered or painted on long gowns of taffeta. In this way, the designer suggest us the superstitious character of Mr Dior. She used tulle, muslin, crinoline, organza and taffeta. All are fluid and airy, with strong shades of black or dusty pastel-purple, pink, gray or blue. This way, the designer evoked the passage of time and the march of the seasons. I couldn.t overlook the lace disbanded mounted on organza, or  pleated tulle but very stratified.

I have to tell you about the accessories!!  The models faces were adorned with tiny little golden stars. Very beautiful! Unfortunately, Dior house won.t have it for sales, even if many fashionistas will want. Organza black mask. Varnished tiara, feather. Low-heeled shoes, black or dusty pink. Large and small rings in the shape of butterflies.

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Conclusion: A beautiful couture collection, full of messages.  I would call transition Collection. An wearable couture ( too much, I would say), the desire of the new creative director. I.m looking forward for a Statement Dior Collection,signed  Maria Grazia Chiuri.

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Saptamana aceasta a avut loc la Paris, Saptamana Modei, unde prestigioase case de moda si-au prezentat colectiile haute-couture pentru primavara/vara 2017. Evenimentul a debutat in forta cu prezentarea Casei Dior, la care ma voi opri astazi, din doua motive: I Love DIOR & Prima Colectie a noului  Directorului de Creatie, Maria Grazia Chiuri- prima femeie designer din istoria Dior.Va inchipuiti, ca dupa plecarea neasteaptata a designerului Raf Simons de la Dior, care a reusit sa se impuna atat de bine prin modernismul talentului sau urias, toti ochii au fost atintiti catre noul designer, care i.a luat locul si colectiile prezentate. Toti am fost curiosi sa vedem, sa admiram, sa analizam, sa cantarim noua colectie, noua directie pe care o va da  Maria Grazia Chiuri, Casei Dior. Dupa vizionarea Colectiei, au inceput sa apara primele reactii, in mediul online…

D-na Grazia este fost director artistic al Casei Valentino. Din pacate, tranzitia catre Dior este destul de dificila, dovada fiind vibe.ul Valentino care a tranzitat prima ei colectie couture, creata pentru Casa Dior.  Intr.un interviu acordat inainte de  show celor de la Vogue, Chiuri recunoaste ca are inainte o perioada  abrupta, dificila de traversat, cu multe de invatat, avand in vedere bariera lingvistica si arhiva enorma a unuia dintre cele mai mari ateliere de moda frantuzesti.  Este imposibil de invatat totul despre Dior, in doar cateva luni, a mai precizat directorul de creatie. Salut realismul doamnei Grazia si de asemenea dorinta cu care pleaca in calatoria Dior: „ Doresc sa imi traiesc visul! Doresc sa creez ceva magic, inspirational, dar totusi bine angrenat in realitate. ”

Set up.ul acestei prezentari a fost unul magnific. A fost ales Castelul Rodin, o bijuterie a arhitecturii pariziene.  Intr.un intreval de timp relativ scurt, gradina castelului a fost  regandita ca o uriasa sala de bal, un labirint urias plin de verdeata (acesta fiind mesajul doamnei Chiuri,  vizavi de viata si cariera sa artistica ), plin cu pernute verzi ca iarba, avand in mijloc Copacul vietii: un copac impresionant decorat cu multe cristale, oglinzi si carti de tarot. Totul a fost imbracat in lumini de basm. Pentru a ne sugera cat mai mult atmosfera de basm, modelele au defilat direct pe iarba.  In acest peisaj de basm, a avut loc prezentarea Colectiei Couture Dior, spring-summer 2017.

Sub egida Fairy-Tale Fashion, au fost prezentate 59 de creatii. Showul a fost deschis intr.o nota de rigoare senzuala, cu modele purtand costume negre realizate din lana neagra, combinata cu satin si masti de crinolina. Apoi, colectia continua cu rochii diafane, pline de imprimeuri si desene florale, ascunse in interiorul straturilor de tul ale rochiilor, dar si cu simboluri astrologice si de tarot brodate sau pictate manual, pe rochiile lungi din tafta.  Astfel, designerul face trimitere catre firea superstitioasa a domnului Dior. Materialele folosite au fost tulul, muselina, crinolina, organza si taftaua. Toate fluide si aerisite, cu puternice nuante de negru, sau culori pastelate-prafuit mov, roz, gri, albastru. Astfel, designerul a evocat trecerea timpului si marsul anotimpurilor. Nu am putut trece cu vederea dantela destramata, montata pe organza, dar si tulul cutat, foarte stratificat.

Sunt demne de evidentiat accesoriile folosite in cadrul prezentarii. Fetele modelelor au fost impodobite strategic cu stelute mici aurii, in coltul interior al ochilor. Din pacate, Casa Dior nu va avea la vanzare aceste accesorii, deja dorite cu vehementa de fashionistele momentului. Masti negre, din organza. Diademe lacuite, cu pene. Pantofi cu toc mic, negri sau roz prafuit. Inele mari si mici, in forma de fluturi.

Concluzie: O Colectie couture frumoasa, bogata in mesaje. As numi.o Colectie de tranzitie. Un Couture purtabil, (chiar mult prea purtabil), asa cum si.a propus noul director de creatie al Casei Dior. Astept  cu mult interes, o Colectie Statement Dior, semnata Maria Grazia Chiuri.

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photos source: http://www.dior.com/home/en_be

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